Ibn Sina Peak vol.2 2017

This time I was 100% determined I will do everything I can to reach the summit. In the second trip, I was an expedition leader even though I was still the youngest. Finding new sponsors, funds, materials it was mainly up to Radim (who reached the summit before and somehow decided to go again) and me. We chose a different approach – maximum comfort in BC and only focus on the mountain. Therefore we bought an “all-inclusive” option with meals, parties, a flushing toilet, sauna, bar etc. No just kidding… The advantages were three meals a day in BC and C1, and tents in BC and C1 everything else was our game. The acclimatization for me started the very first day of arrival. I and Radim ran up to 4000m spent some time there and went back again. The day after I went with Šťáva and we reached some 4200m point.  Following day we went to C1 and stayed there for the most of an expedition time. At C1 I and Radim suffered from diarrhoea and lost half of our body weight in a pit of doom.  Even with this, I was able to reach 5100m peak twice in a row. The first time I ran up alone the second with our group, I felt pretty good even at this altitude, no headache or other high altitude sickness symptoms. The weather was, unfortunately, claggy, we couldn’t go up because of every evening storms which came with Swiss precision. Nevertheless, the weather settled and we were able to go up to the mountain possibly for the summit. Unsurprisingly, my expedition again ended at the very same time. We reached some point around 5300m near C2 and I had the same issues as I’d had on the expedition before. I could not catch up breath anymore and had to turn around back to Bc where I spent most of my time resting. Šťáva had even bigger issues, he suffered from brain oedema at C3 and miraculously was saved by his friend. During one day they went from C2 to C3 and right after that from C3 to BC. In terms of altitude from 5400 to 6300 and back to 3500, that was insane. Another funny moment was that Taurus reached the summit just a day before our departure from BC. So after summit push, he packed all his stuff and went to from C3 to BC. (he was never before higher than 3900m). All in all, it was awesome and great experience yet again, however I now know that my body is not able to handle higher altitudes therefore I’ll focus more on racing and climbing in Alps!
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